Cagliari: The festival of Sant'Efisio in May
The festival of Sant'Efisio, celebrated in Cagliari in early May, is without a doubt the most important event in the capital of Sardinia. Since 1957, on May 1, Sant'Efisio has been transported in a carriage from Cagliari, via Pula to Nora. Thousands of believers and folk groups in traditional Sardinian costumes follow this procession on foot from the center of Cagliari. The saint returns on May 4. Sardinia4all has been able to attend this colorful procession several times. Definitely a special happening. We recommend to take a look in Cagliari on May 1st!
Who was Sant'Efisio?
Efisio was born around the 3rd century in Antioch, modern-day Turkey. His Christian father Cristoforo died at a young age and so Efisio was raised by his pagan mother Alessandra. He joined the Roman army under the leadership of Emperor Diocletian as a martyr and was eventually sent from Italy to Sardinia to fight against Christianity. Legend has it that when he was overtaken by a very violent storm while traveling, he was struck by a vision that changed his mind. Instead of fighting the Christians, he decided to protect them. From this event, Efisio was left with a cross burned in his palm, after which he converted to the Christian faith. This decision was much appreciated by the population, but of course not by the emperor. Sant’Efisio was therefore beheaded on the beach of Nora in South Sardinia.
A celebration of thanks
In 1652 Sardinia was ravaged by the plague, with half of the population dying. In this state of emergency, the state administration enlisted the help of their patron saint Sant'Efisio. If he managed to stop the plague, the inhabitants of Cagliari would carry an effigy of Sant'Efisio on foot every year from the church in the Stampace district in procession to the place where he died in Nora as a thank you. And so it happened: the plague passed and since May 1, 1656, there has been an annual procession in thanks to the patron saint Sant'Efisio.
Not just any parade
For almost a whole year they have been working hard on the preparation of this big party. In every village in Sardinia, believers pay a lot of attention to their costumes. Traditional and expensive clothing, often worn by several generations, is being refurbished; riders and their horses practice a lot to be able to ride in the procession on May 1; the huge oxen are being prepared to pull the so-called “traccas”. These antique wagons are completely decorated with colorful flowers with a Sardinian family on board, of course in traditional costume.
A few days before the start of the party, the statue of Sant'Efisio is of course also dressed. With a red robe, a large white collar, a gold crown, a silver sword and many ornaments, the saint will be ridden through the streets on May 1.
A few days before the start of the party, the statue of Sant'Efisio is of course also dressed. With a red robe, a large white collar, a gold crown, a silver sword and many ornaments, the saint will be ridden through the streets on May 1.
May 1, the time has finally come: la festa di Sant’Efisio
Early in the morning you can take part in the first mass at 7.15 am in the small church of Chiesa di Sant'Efisio, located in Via Sant'Efisio of the same name. If you don't make it to the first mass, there will be another mass at 8:00 am and one at 9:00 am. Meanwhile, the streets and alleys in the city fill with spectators. If you also want to be assured of a good spot, we certainly advise you to be in the center early in the morning on 1 May. In the streets of Via Crispi, Via G.M. Angioy and Largo Carlo Felice you can usually get a good seat in the front. The parade will start around 10 am. The trail, which will be completed on foot, will start in Via Azuni to Piazza Yenne, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Via Sassari, Piazza del Carmine, Via Crispi, Via GM Angioy, Via Mameli, Largo Carlo Felice, Via Roma (next to the town hall) , Via Sassari to Viale La Playa. Then Efisio leaves the city of Cagliari.
A colorful procession
First the decorated traditional carts can be seen, followed by folkloric groups from many villages, dressed in the beautiful traditional costumes of Sardinia, which range from sober dresses to brightly colored costumes of the ladies from small villages like Desulo and Fonni. They are accompanied by children and dark-dressed men. According to tradition, some of them join the tour barefoot. The procession is accompanied by prayer and rosaries, songs and the sounds of the Is Launeddas, typical Sardinian flutes. You will really be amazed! Hundreds of riders follow the group on horseback. Sant'Efisio leaves the church around 12:00 noon. Leading the way is a singing group of worshipers who sprinkle the streets with rose petals, before the saint is carried towards Via Roma. Before the procession leaves the city, the town hall on Via Roma pauses for a moment and the patron saint is greeted by the fog horns of the moored ships.
On foot from Cagliari to Nora
A small part of the procession continues to walk. After leaving the city, a visit is made to Villaggio Pescatori. Arrival in the church of Sant'Efisio is planned around 3 pm. Here the saint is stripped of his precious jewels and is put on simple “travel clothes”. The procession continues via La Maddalena Spiaggia to Frutti D'oro. Here another mass is held in the open air on the square of the church of Sant'Efisio in Su Loi. The oxen are fed and can relax before the procession continues via Villa D'Orri to Sarroch. The saint spends the night in Sarroch.
Via Pula to Nora
On 2 May, after a new mass at 8 a.m., the procession continues to Pula and after 6 p.m. to its final destination, Nora. On May 3, several holy masses will take place in the open air in Nora. At the end of the day, a procession heads to Nora beach, to the place where Sant'Efisio was beheaded.
Back to his home port in Cagliari
If you missed May 1, we recommend that you take a look at May 4. The saint then returns to the city of Cagliari in the evening. Accompanied by countless believers, Sant'Efisio is taken through streets back to the church in the Stampace district, right in the center of the city. A wonderful conclusion to this special and religious festival, la Festa di Sant’Efisio.
Would you like to attend Sant'Efisio?
View the accommodation in and around Cagliari here
You may also like this
• Autumn in Barbagia
Would you like to attend Sant'Efisio?
View the accommodation in and around Cagliari here
You may also like this
• Autumn in Barbagia