Arzachena may seem unassuming at first, but a stroll through its centre reveals some unusual details. Particularly striking is the steep outdoor staircase leading to the chapel of Santa Lucia: its 74 steps are redesigned by artists each year, creating a small open-air gallery. From here, a short walk leads to Roccia Il Fungo, a tafoni rock formation that towers above the town like a giant granite mushroom. This place was already significant in the Stone Age: traces of a prehistoric settlement have been discovered beneath the rock.
Wednesday is market day: from 7:30 am to 1:30 pm, the Mercato settimanale di Arzachena offers locally grown fruit and vegetables, Sardinian cheeses, cured meats and bread. After exploring the town, an ice cream is a must. My tip: C’era una volta on Viale Costa Smeralda – for me, it serves by far the best gelato in the region.

The first glimpse is impressive: the monumental exedra of the Giants’ Tomb of Coddu Vecchiu is among the most striking examples of Sardinian funerary architecture. During the Nuragic period, the site served as a communal tomb. More than 3,000 years ago, the dead from the nearby settlement were buried here. Particularly remarkable is the massive central stele at the entrance, standing around four metres high. Among olive trees and granite rocks, the monument still has a powerful presence – a place where history and landscape come together.

Just a few minutes outside Arzachena stands Nuraghe Albucciu, one of Sardinia’s most unusual nuraghi. Unlike the typical tower structures, this massive stone building seems to crouch among the granite rocks. It recalls the structures of the Torrean culture on the neighbouring island of Corsica! The remains of an entire prehistoric village have been discovered around the nuraghe. Beneath shady holm oaks, you can stroll among the ruins and imagine how people lived here more than 3,000 years ago, with sweeping views across the hills of Gallura.
The same starting point on the outskirts of Arzachena also gives access to another highlight. Hidden on a granite hill, Tempietto Malchittu is a remarkably well-preserved relic of the Nuragic period. A short walking trail leads through dense Mediterranean scrub, with strawberry trees, mastic shrubs and wild olive trees, to this granite cult temple dating back more than 3,000 years. The small building is one of Sardinia’s few surviving megaron temples. Particularly striking is how naturally it blends into the granite landscape. Niches, seating and even a hearth are still recognisable, while an almost mystical stillness surrounds the site.

Nuraghe La Prisgiona is one of Gallura’s most impressive Nuragic complexes, just a few kilometres outside Arzachena. Built more than 3,000 years ago, it comprised a central tower, several subsidiary towers and an entire Nuragic village with more than 90 round huts. Archaeologists discovered meeting rooms, storerooms and workshops here – evidence that La Prisgiona was once an important centre of Nuragic culture. The nuraghe acquired its name much later: “Prisgiona” means prison in the local dialect. For many years, local people believed that the massive tower had once served as a dungeon. In fact, it is a complex prehistoric settlement. Today, you can walk among the granite blocks and through the village ruins, imagining how life bustled here thousands of years ago.

While sports cars gleam on the roads of the Costa Smeralda below and champagne glasses clink in Porto Cervo, it is worth heading uphill for a different perspective. Monte Moro, a local peak near Arzachena, offers one of the region’s finest panoramas.
An easy walk, mountain bike ride or cycle ride follows a narrow road up to the radio antennas on the summit. At 422 metres above sea level, spectacular views open up across much of Gallura’s coastline. Below lie Porto Cervo and the bays of Grande Pevero and Piccolo Pevero. On clear days, the views stretch far out to sea – to Tavolara, Corsica and, with a little luck, even Asinara to the west or the Tuscan island of Giglio to the north.
The summit surroundings also have considerable natural interest: unusual granite towers, fragrant Mediterranean scrub and patches of almost woodland-like vegetation shape the landscape. From up here, you can enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Sardinia’s most famous coast.
Parking: Parking is available by the small pilgrimage church of Santa Teresina. Alternatively, follow the unpaved track a little further uphill and park along the roadside.

At the Capo Ferro lighthouse, the Costa Smeralda reveals its peaceful yet glamorous side. Offshore, large yachts from Porto Cervo sail past on their way to the La Maddalena archipelago. Even the short walk along the rugged rocky coastline makes this place special.
Among the smoothly weathered granite boulders, you will find quiet spots right beside the water – ideal for snorkelling, swimming and lingering awhile. As elegant sailing boats and luxury yachts glide past offshore, the atmosphere here feels surprisingly relaxed. This stretch of coast is especially appealing in the late afternoon, when Capo Ferro becomes a lovely setting for a sunset picnic. As the sun sinks behind the Costa Smeralda, bathing the granite rocks in warm light, the scene takes on an almost magical quality.
Parking: You can park along the roadside before the large military lighthouse. From there, a short walk over the rocks leads to several beautiful spots by the water.

While Porto Cervo is known for glamour, designer boutiques and luxury yachts, Cannigione feels refreshingly down-to-earth and welcoming. This small harbour town on the Gulf of Arzachena has retained its easy-going character, making it one of the region’s most likeable places. Here, a lively waterfront promenade, fishing boats, cafés and restaurants offer a sense of everyday life that continues beyond the peak season.
Cannigione is also an ideal base for boat trips to the La Maddalena archipelago and the finest coves along the north-east coast. Excursions regularly depart from the harbour to explore the islands, with swimming stops in idyllic spots among granite rocks and turquoise waters. If you prefer to stay ashore, stroll along the quay, watch the boats or simply enjoy the relaxed waterfront atmosphere.
Cannigione is especially appealing in the evening, when the promenade fills with people taking a stroll, children play in the square and restaurants serve fresh fish, seafood and Sardinian specialities. The town is at its liveliest then, without losing its unhurried pace. It becomes even more colourful on Mondays, when the market takes place and traders from across Gallura offer everything from cheese, cured meats and honey to clothing, crafts and local delicacies. Cannigione brings together maritime charm, everyday Sardinian life and a generous helping of joie de vivre.

Cala dei Ginepri is one of the pleasantly peaceful stretches of coast between Baia Sardinia and Cannigione. Small coves, granite rocks and fragrant juniper bushes shape the landscape. The beach is divided into several small sections with pale sand and shallow, often crystal-clear water – ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Walk a little further along the rocks and you will soon discover quiet spots where you can find some peace even in summer.

One of Gallura’s best-known natural landmarks lies just a few kilometres from Arzachena. Roccia dell’Orso, the famous “Bear Rock”, towers above the sea on a granite hill near Palau. Over thousands of years, wind, rain and salty sea air have slowly eroded the massive granite boulder, shaping it into a giant bear that seems to watch over the coast.
A short footpath leads to the viewpoint directly beneath the rock formation. From here, an impressive panorama opens up across the coastline and the islands of the La Maddalena archipelago. The views stretch across the Strait of Bonifacio to Corsica – on exceptionally clear days, you can even make out individual mountain ranges on the island.

Luogosanto reveals Gallura’s quiet, traditional side. Set among granite houses, narrow lanes and wooded hills, this village takes its name from the words “holy place”. At its heart stands the Basilica of Nostra Signora di Luogosanto, whose origins date back to the 13th century. It recalls the village’s long pilgrimage tradition. A stroll through the centre combines easily with visits to the small country churches and viewpoints nearby.
The little hermitage church of San Trano is particularly atmospheric. Built among massive granite boulders, it seems almost part of the rocky landscape. Inside, a natural rock grotto has been incorporated into the church. Outside, views stretch across the hills of Gallura – on clear days, as far as the Strait of Bonifacio and Corsica.
Beyond the village, Castello di Balaiana offers another impressive viewpoint. A steep but scenic climb along steps and paths leads to the surviving walls of the medieval castle. Just a few steps away stands the small Romanesque church of San Leonardo, once the castle chapel. Built entirely from granite, even its roof, it blends beautifully into the rocky surroundings. High above the hills, this solitary stone church makes a lovely place to pause and enjoy sweeping views across Gallura.

Which accommodation suits my holiday budget? Just ask us – we know where your perfect Sardinia escape awaits.

Jana
Sardinia4all